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If a product claims to hydrate the skin, the algorithm will look for moisturizing ingredients. Each ingredient is then also evaluated based on the scientific evidence available to support its efficacy. If a product contains an ingredient that has been shown to work in multiple human double-blind controlled studies, it will be rated higher than a product with an ingredient that has only been shown to have a positive impact in a lab on cells in a petri dish.
A good moisturizer, for example, reportedly needs to include a combination of actives with different functions, such as ingredients that bind water or help repair the skin barrier. The algorithm takes this into account, rating the products with better overall formulas as preferable.
Ingredient concentration in the product formula is another factor that the algorithm considers. To be effective, the product must include a certain amount of active ingredients. WIMJ flags ingredients in products that do not meet this effectiveness threshold. Finally, the algorithm rates products that are formulated to minimize skin irritation risk as higher than potentially irritating products with the same benefits. According to the company, products with relatively lower irritation potential are more likely to bring better skin results, even if the skin is not particularly sensitive.
The WIMJ algorithm assesses skin irritation potential for ingredients in the product formula, considering the typical concentrations used. In addition, the algorithm examines clinical data such as cases of dermal irritation, which are reported in dermatology publications. The rating goes as follows:. If WIMJ algorithm flags a product with a medium or high skin irritation risk, it does not mean the product will certainly cause a problem.
Rather, it suggests the chance of irritation is higher for the given product. A product with low irritation risk can still cause a reaction, especially if a consumer has a rare sensitivity or has developed an allergy to a particular ingredient. As recommended, it is always best to patch test new products before using them.
Responding to increased demand for efficacious formulas, iLabs has developed a pair of clinical vitamin concentrates that feature eye-catching colors and impactful ingredients. The Ageless concentrate features effective levels of retinyl linoleate for brightening and anti-aging benefits ; a carotenoid complex comprising carrot root extract, carrot seed oil and beta-carotene for blue light defense and a livelier skin appearance ; and vitamin-packed A,C,E and ellagitannin-rich cloudberry oil.
Meanwhile, the Hyperpigmentation Vita-C stick features cloudberry oil, hemisqualane, kahai oil and efficacious levels of tetrahexadecyl ascorbate, offering a vitamin C-rich formulation. The beauty veteran has held roles with major firms but found herself on the losing end of a battle to get leadership to think about the needs of Black skin in a meaningful way.
Still, she felt limited by the known effective range of ingredients in the space. Wanting to venture deeper into the available technology, she engaged BASF to test combinations of existing technologies. Black skin tends to have higher levels of sebum and lower levels of ceramides. This combination is what creates skin conditions that are simultaneously shiny and dry from moisture loss. This combination is COSMOS-certified and provides moisturization that lasts for 24 hours, per BASF, and was even noted by the company to outperform glycerin in consumer trials all users self-identified as Black.
As for Hairston-Hicks, her wishlist for future melanated skin innovations include clean and sustainable materials, as well as organic SPF. She noted that her best-seller is the Vita C Moisturizer SPF 50 and that further consumer education is necessary to communicate the importance of SPF defense for melanated skin.
Efficacy concerns are also shaping the microbiome sector. In January , the U. ASA ruled that the ad breached rules on misleading advertising and claims substantiation. Trust, as ASA noted, is critical when it comes to the microbiome.
While these statistics seem off-putting toward microbiome-based product development, the company frames it as the perfect forecast for success in These numbers were shared in a presentation given by Catherine Zanchetta, next-generation sequencing senior specialist at Givaudan Active Beauty, and moderated by Pauline Martin, global communications and events manager for the company.
These were used in the development of ingredients for microbiome care. Balance to Enhance refers to balancing the microbiota of sensitive skin to reduce immune system activations such as cytokine release. Using 16S rRNA sequencing, the researchers identified the most prominent bacteria involved in skin sensitivity, Corynebacterium , and developed an ingredient to reduce its presence.
Protect to Care relates to protecting the existing microbiota. Finally, Trigger to Activate leverages the microbiome for beneficial effects in skin. This triggers the same biological cascade as melatonin for a positive effect on the circadian rhythm. By taking this approach, Avon can innovate for those who respond to anti-aging while also leaving room for those on the pro-aging end of the spectrum.
A range of brands have stepped into the authentic aging sphere, including Pause, which tackles the impacts of menopause with a trio of offerings—The Hot Flash Cooling Mist, the Collagen Boosting Moisturizer to address dryness, fine lines and wrinkles associated with reduced estrogen, and the Fascia Stimulating Tool to address loss of tone and texture.
The brand features its proprietary Pause Complex, comprising vitamins, antioxidants and peptides to help fuel collagen production. Ingredient technology is also advancing to offer new tools to address aging. In particular, P. It is also claimed to support and maintain collagen in the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. While skin care sales have been negatively impacted by the pandemic, self-care trends and targeted needs have offered promising areas of growth.
Here, we provide a data-driven breakdown of the leading sectors. The total serum sector added , searches during that same period, including more than 23, for hyaluronic acid serums and nearly 23, for niacinamide serums. Each molecular weight is formulated to reach different depths of skin to fulfill a range of regenerative and hydrating functions that improve skin from the inside out.
For example, the third smallest molecule, miniHA small molecular weight HA, gives deeper hydration that promotes cell growth and stimulates cellular activity, further boosting skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Other top formats include cream-based, gel and peel-offs. New formats and technologies are emerging to take the category to new heights. According to Weibo Hi-Tech, a China-based OEM, freeze drying and flash release technology have several advantages for beauty, including the maximization of the activity of key ingredients without the need for added preservatives.
These techniques can affect the rapid sublimation of water in a liquid serum, thereby maintaining both efficacy and safety. Weibo features 15 beauty products that leverage the technologies, including seven freeze-dried serums, seven freeze-dried masks and a freeze-dried eye mask. The eye mask has been nominated for the Cosmoprof Asia Awards.
The eye mask instantly blends with water to promote transdermal absorption, and reportedly helps firm and rejuvenate the skin. The category is dominated by The Ordinary, which spiked in interest in May That said, much of the rest of the search volume comprises non-branded searches. Areas of opportunity include exfoliating toners for sensitive skin, offering gentle solutions, or toners that are exfoliating and hydrating. As more international brands target the Chinese market, particularly amid eased restrictions around animal testing, brands may want to explore skin care opportunities for men.
Li noted that, because male consumers are function-driven, brands should seek to target prominent issues such as maskne. Despite the disruption of the pandemic, ingredient innovation has advanced, offering technologies that support the key functions and claims consumers are seeking. Ziziphus spina-christi is a thorny evergreen shrub that is tolerant to high temperatures and grows in arid regions where dry seasons can last up to 10 months. The company has derived an extract from leaves of these wild-growing plants.
It further reduces the expression of the AGE receptor that drives glycation-induced inflammation, the appearance of wrinkles, and the AGE formation and collagen fragmentation in the skin. Additional benefits of GlowAGE are: prevents and reverses glycation; decreases yellow skin tone; reduces wrinkles and smooths the skin; and restores collagen.
Its strong reliance on Asia meant its sales fell in Q1  by 2. It also improves targets associated skin itchiness and roughness. It may seem a well-established truth at this stage of the pandemic, but the truth remains: acne and maskne solutions will continue to be key consumer concerns for the long term. Western Europe is the next largest opportunity for maskne claims. A January report from Trendalytics n notes that there are currently 38, maskne-related searches per week.
In February , the company pointed out that, since , hydrocolloid search interest spiked Spate in part credits the highly visual results offered by hydrocolloid for its popularity. In formulations, the technology reportedly reduces the appearance of wrinkles and boosts moisturization without inducing skin irritation. Elsewhere, SeroVital Beauty has launched a range of skin care treatments targeting mature women experiencing deep wrinkles, skin sagging, dry skin and weakening skin barriers.
Looking further ahead, a recent white paper published by Xi Huang, Ph. The platform reportedly safely neutralizes excess excreted iron in skin to prevent the causes of aging. Clinical results are set to be published in March The technology is relevant to aging consumers because iron storage in skin has been shown to increase during menopause. An iron-reduction strategy could perhaps improve signs of aging, such as the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and a lack of skin brightness and firmness.
In contrast, antioxidants including retinol, vitamin E, resveratrol and niacinamide are retroactive, fighting free radicals that have already formed. In applications, the material can reportedly help protect sensitive skin and damaged hair. Per Vantage, testing has found that Liponat Jojoba 20 can restore skin hydration levels within four hours and reduce trans-epidermal water loss and skin redness.
The traceable material is derived via a proprietary esterification process from jojoba seeds sustainably grown and harvested on Vantage farms in Argentina and the United States. CBD has turned up in countless launches in the last three years, but how much do we know about its efficacy across various benefit areas? They note that great caution should be taken in exploring areas for modulating pigmentation and hair growth, as any speculative science therein could lead to unwanted opposing effects.
Finally, pushing past the current CBD focus, the authors recommend exploring therapeutic benefits of other hemp phytocannabinoids and botanicals with phytocannabinoid-like activity. This evolution is already underway in the marketplace.
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